Pilsen (Plzen), Czech Republic: The Complete Travel Guide for UK Visitors
Pilsen — known in Czech as Plzen — is one of the most satisfying destinations in the Pilsen Czech Republic for UK travellers, and one of the most consistently underestimated. The fourth largest city in the country with a population of around 180,000, it sits 90 kilometres south-west of Prague and offers the kind of authentic, lived-in Central European city experience that the tourist-heavy streets of the Czech capital increasingly struggle to provide.
The city’s fame rests primarily on beer — Pilsen is the birthplace of Pilsner lager, the style of beer that now accounts for approximately two-thirds of all beer produced in the world. The Pilsner Urquell Brewery, founded here in 1842 and the first brewery ever to produce a golden pale lager, is the defining attraction and offers one of the most genuinely educational brewery tours in Europe. But Pilsen is more than its beer history: Republic Square is one of the largest and most architecturally coherent town squares in the Czech Republic, the city’s 20-kilometre network of medieval underground tunnels is genuinely extraordinary, and the compact, relaxed city centre is a pleasure to wander without the crowds that overwhelm Prague.
Quick Facts: Pilsen (Plzen), Czech Republic
| Official name | Plzen (Czech) / Pilsen (German/English) |
| Location | West Bohemia, Czech Republic — 90km south-west of Prague |
| Population | Approximately 180,000 (fourth largest city in Czech Republic) |
| Founded | 1295 by King Wenceslas II of Bohemia |
| Famous for | Pilsner Urquell Brewery (birthplace of Pilsner lager); Republic Square; Historic Underground |
| From Prague | Approximately 1 hour by train; 1 hour 15 minutes by car (90km) |
| Recommended time | Day trip minimum; one to two nights to explore properly |
| Currency | Czech Koruna (CZK) — not euros |
| Language | Czech; English spoken in tourist areas and restaurants |
| Best time to visit | May to September for best weather; autumn is pleasant and less crowded |
Why Visit Pilsen?
Pilsen’s claim to global significance is not overstated. When the Pilsner Urquell Brewery first produced its golden pale lager in 1842, it created something genuinely new — a clear, bright, refreshing beer that was radically different from the dark, murky ales and lagers that dominated European brewing at the time. The style was so immediately popular and so widely imitated that the word ‘Pilsner’ (or ‘Pils’) became a category name for the style of beer rather than a brand name. Today, roughly two-thirds of all beer produced in the world — from Czech lagers to mainstream British lagers to international brands — traces its style lineage directly back to what was first brewed in Pilsen in 1842.
For UK beer drinkers, the Pilsner Urquell Brewery tour is a genuinely illuminating experience — particularly the underground cellars section where unfiltered, unpasteurised Pilsner Urquell is served straight from the wooden barrels, a version of the beer that is only available to brewery tour visitors and is widely considered the finest expression of the brew.
Beyond the brewery, Pilsen’s history is rich and sometimes dark. Founded in 1295, the city was an important centre of Bohemian brewing and crafts throughout the medieval period. It was part of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy until the formation of Czechoslovakia in 1918, occupied by German forces in 1939, and liberated by the American Army in May 1945 — a fact celebrated in Pilsen every year on Liberation Day. Under the Communist regime from 1948 to 1989, the city was dominated by the Skoda Works heavy machinery plant. Since the Velvet Revolution of 1989, the city has been steadily restoring its pre-war architectural heritage and developing a genuinely appealing tourist offer.
How to Get to Pilsen from Prague
By Train (Recommended)
The easiest and most comfortable way to reach Pilsen from Prague is by train. Direct trains depart from Praha Hlavni Nadrazi (Prague Main Railway Station) approximately once per hour and take roughly 1 hour 20 minutes to 1 hour 40 minutes depending on the service. Tickets can be purchased at the station, online at cd.cz (Czech Railways), or through the Idos journey planner. Fares are very affordable — typically 150 to 250 CZK (approximately £5 to £9) each way.
Pilsen hlavni nadrazi (Pilsen Main Railway Station) is a short tram ride from the city centre. Trams are frequent and inexpensive — a single journey costs approximately 24 CZK. The city centre is also walkable from the station in approximately 20 to 25 minutes.
- Train frequency: Approximately hourly from Praha Hlavni Nadrazi
- Journey time: 1 hour 20 minutes to 1 hour 40 minutes
- Book at: cd.cz/en or purchase at the station
By Car
Driving from Prague to Pilsen takes approximately 1 hour 15 minutes via the D5 motorway westbound. The motorway runs almost the entire distance and the drive is straightforward. Parking is available in the city centre, both in car parks and on-street. The D5 continues westward from Pilsen to the German border near Rozvadov — making Pilsen a natural stop on a drive from Germany into the Czech Republic.
Day Trip or Overnight Stay?
Pilsen is comfortable as a day trip from Prague — the Pilsner Urquell Brewery tour (2 hours), the Historic Underground (1 hour), and a walk around Republic Square can all be accomplished in a well-managed day. However, staying one or two nights allows a more relaxed experience: an early morning in the empty streets, time to explore the Mill Race gardens and quieter neighbourhoods, and the pleasure of an evening meal and beer without watching the clock for the return train.
Best Things to Do in Pilsen
1. Pilsner Urquell Brewery Tour
The Pilsner Urquell Brewery tour is the definitive Pilsen experience and one of the best brewery tours in Europe by any measure. The tour runs approximately two hours and covers the full history of the brewery from its founding in 1842 by Josef Groll — the Bavarian brewer hired by the Pilsen bourgeois brewery guild to create something new — through the development of the Pilsner style, its commercial success, the impact of the Second World War on production, and the modern brewing process.
The tour’s centrepiece is the underground cellar section, where the original limestone tunnels used for lagering (cold-storing) the beer at a constant temperature are still intact. Here, straight from one of the original oak barrels, guests receive a glass of unfiltered, unpasteurised Pilsner Urquell — a version of the beer that is only available on the brewery tour, not commercially bottled or exported. The character of this fresh, unfiltered version is noticeably different from the commercially available product and is consistently described by visitors as the best beer they have ever tasted.
- Duration: Approximately 2 hours
- Cost: Approximately 380 CZK (around £13–£14)
- Booking: Book in advance at prazdrojvisit.cz/en — tours sell out on busy days
- Tours available in English: Yes, with English-language guided tours available daily
- Highlight: Unfiltered Pilsner Urquell from the oak barrel — only available on the tour
2. Pilsen Historic Underground
Beneath the streets of Pilsen lies one of the largest medieval underground networks in the Czech Republic — approximately 20 kilometres of interconnected cellars, passageways, and water wells built from the end of the 13th century onwards, extending as deep as three floors beneath the city. The guided tour takes visitors through an 800-metre section of this labyrinth, exploring the everyday life of medieval Pilsen citizens, the use of the cellars for storing food and beer, and the engineering ingenuity of the water well system.
The ceilings in the tunnels are low — if you are over 165 centimetres (approximately 5’5″) tall, you will need to duck in places. Helmets are provided at the start of the tour and are genuinely useful. The tour lasts approximately one hour and concludes with a free beer voucher redeemable at a selection of Pilsen restaurants — a thoughtful addition that combines a historical experience with a practical benefit.
- Duration: 60 minutes
- Cost: Approximately 190 CZK (around £6.50–£7)
- Booking: Book in advance at plzen.eu/en to avoid disappointment
- Warning: Low ceilings throughout — not recommended for anyone with acute claustrophobia
- Free beer voucher: Included with the tour; redeemable at multiple city centre restaurants
3. Republic Square (Namesti Republiky)
Republic Square is one of the largest and most architecturally impressive town squares in the Czech Republic — a broad, open space surrounded by buildings in Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles, with the spire of St Bartholomew’s Cathedral rising dramatically at one end. The square is the social centre of Pilsen: cafes spread onto the pavement in summer, locals cross it at all hours, and the blend of pastel facades and historical architecture makes it a genuinely pleasant place to spend time.
Three modern golden fountains in the square are a deliberate contemporary contrast to the historical architecture around them — reportedly dividing local opinion between those who find them a refreshing addition and those who feel they are incongruous. They consistently surprise first-time visitors who are not expecting such a bold modern intervention in a medieval square.
4. Cathedral of St Bartholomew (Katedrala Svateho Bartolomeje)
The Gothic Cathedral of St Bartholomew dominates Republic Square and the entire Pilsen skyline with a tower of 102.6 metres — the tallest church tower in the Czech Republic and the third tallest structure in the country. Construction began in the 14th century and the cathedral has been central to the civic and religious life of Pilsen for seven centuries.
The interior contains significant Gothic art including the 14th-century Pilsen Madonna, a Gothic stone statue considered one of the finest examples of Czech Gothic sculpture. Climbing the 301 steps to the top of the bell tower requires booking a separate ticket but rewards the effort with views over the entire city and the surrounding West Bohemian countryside.
- Tower climb: 301 steps; separate ticket required; not recommended for severe acrophobia
- Tower height: 102.6 metres — tallest church tower in Czech Republic
5. Mill Race (Mlynska strouha) — Pilsen’s Venice
The Mill Race is a pleasant surprise for visitors who wander beyond the main tourist sights — a quiet area of waterways, ponds, and lush green gardens on the edge of the city centre that has earned the nickname ‘Pilsen’s Venice.’ The canal system here was part of the city’s historic water management infrastructure and the area around it forms part of Pilsen’s green belt of parks and gardens.
It is an ideal place for a peaceful walk between the main attractions, particularly on a warm afternoon when the city centre feels busy. The gardens are well maintained and the reflections of the surrounding trees in the water give the area a quiet, almost rural character unusual for a city of 180,000 people.
6. Great Synagogue (Velka Synagoga)
The Great Synagogue of Pilsen is the third largest synagogue in the world and the second largest in Europe — a Moorish Revival building completed in 1893 that can accommodate 2,000 worshippers. It is one of the most architecturally spectacular buildings in Pilsen and often overlooked by visitors focused on the brewery and the underground. The ornate interior features original decorative elements, stained glass, and carved woodwork on a scale that makes it unmissable for anyone with an interest in European Jewish history or architectural heritage.
The Jewish community of Pilsen was significant and prosperous in the 19th and early 20th centuries — the Great Synagogue stands as a testament to that community’s wealth and confidence before the catastrophic losses of the Second World War. Guided tours are available.
7. Liberation Memorial and Patton Square
Pilsen was liberated by the Third US Army under General George S. Patton on 6 May 1945 — one of the last Czech cities to be freed from Nazi occupation, and the only major Czech city liberated by American rather than Soviet forces. This historical accident had significant consequences: Pilsen remained under American occupation until the post-war borders were agreed, and the city’s relationship with American culture and history has been celebrated ever since.
Patton Square (Namesti Generala Pattona) near the city centre commemorates the liberation with a memorial, and the city holds its annual Liberation Festival every May on the anniversary. The contrast with the rest of the Czech Republic, where the Soviet liberation narrative dominated for four decades of communism, gives Pilsen a distinctive historical identity.
Where to Eat in Pilsen
Pilsen has a good range of restaurants covering traditional Czech cuisine, casual cafes, and more contemporary options — all at prices that are considerably lower than equivalent quality in Prague or UK cities.
- Senk Na Parkanu: A traditional Czech-style pub serving hearty Bohemian food — sausages, dumplings, goulash — in a no-frills, authentic atmosphere. The free beer voucher from the Historic Underground tour is accepted here. Excellent value and genuinely local in character.
- Restaurace Lekarna: A well-regarded restaurant with impeccable service and generous portions of traditional Czech cuisine. The goulash is particularly recommended. Warm and inviting interior; good for an evening meal.
- Restaurace U Mansfelda: A slightly more refined restaurant option in Pilsen, overlooking the gardens. The mushroom soup is notably good. A pleasant patio in summer months.
- Caffe Hardy: A beautiful pink corner building a few streets from Republic Square housing an excellent coffee shop. Strong coffee, outstanding cake (the walnut cake is regularly praised), and friendly service. A perfect mid-morning or afternoon stop.
- Il Mio Caffe: A small, characterful coffee shop in the city centre. Good espresso and a relaxed atmosphere — well suited for starting the day before the brewery tour.
- Pekarstvi Holysov: A bakery slightly outside the city centre serving chlebicek (Czech open sandwiches) and kolace (sweet Czech pastries with fruit, poppy seed, or cream cheese fillings). Very affordable and authentically local.
- Budget note: A traditional Czech meal with beer in Pilsen typically costs £8 to £15. The Czech Republic’s lower cost of living compared to the UK makes dining out excellent value even at sit-down restaurants.
Where to Stay in Pilsen
Pilsen has a good range of accommodation from budget hostels to comfortable mid-range hotels, all more affordable than equivalent options in Prague.
- Hotel Rango: A centrally located hotel on a main tram route, praised for its quality rooms, breakfast, and staff. A reliable mid-range option well suited to tourists visiting the city’s main attractions.
- Angelo Hotel Pilsen: A modern four-star hotel in the city centre with good facilities and comfortable rooms. Higher end of the mid-range bracket.
- Hotel Central: A well-located option on or near Republic Square, convenient for the main sights. Mid-range pricing.
- Budget option: Pilsen has several hostels and budget guesthouses that are significantly cheaper than Prague equivalents while providing easy access to all the city’s attractions.
Practical Tips for Visiting Pilsen
- Book the brewery tour in advance: The Pilsner Urquell Brewery tour sells out on popular days, particularly on weekends and in summer. Book well in advance at prazdrojvisit.cz/en.
- Book the Historic Underground: Guided tour slots are limited; pre-book at plzen.eu/en to avoid missing it.
- Currency: Czech Republic uses Czech Koruna (CZK), not euros. Cards are widely accepted but carry some cash. ATMs are plentiful in the city centre.
- Free beer voucher: The Historic Underground tour includes a free beer voucher redeemable at selected restaurants — ask the tour guide for the list.
- Trams: Pilsen has an excellent tram network connecting the railway station to the city centre and most main attractions. A single journey costs approximately 24 CZK. Day passes are available for unlimited travel.
- Czech phrases: ‘Dobry den’ (good day), ‘Dekuji’ (thank you), ‘Prosim’ (please) will be appreciated. English is well spoken in tourist areas but less common outside the centre.
- Great Synagogue opening hours: Check in advance as the synagogue has seasonal hours and periodic closures for special events.
Pilsen Day Trip Itinerary from Prague
- 8:30am — Depart Praha Hlavni Nadrazi by train
- 9:50am — Arrive Pilsen; tram or short walk to city centre
- 10:15am — Pilsner Urquell Brewery Tour (2 hours; pre-booked)
- 12:15pm — Lunch near the brewery or walk to Republic Square for a restaurant
- 1:30pm — Republic Square; Cathedral of St Bartholomew exterior; optional tower climb
- 2:30pm — Pilsen Historic Underground tour (1 hour; pre-booked)
- 3:45pm — Mill Race (Mlynska strouha) walk; Great Synagogue visit
- 5:00pm — Coffee at Caffe Hardy or Patton Square
- 6:00pm — Return to Pilsen railway station; train back to Prague
The History of Pilsner Beer
The story of how Pilsen became the birthplace of the world’s most popular beer style is a genuine piece of European food and drink history worth knowing before visiting the brewery.
In the 1830s, Pilsen’s local beer had a poor reputation — the city’s bourgeois brewery guild was producing a product so inconsistent in quality that in 1838 the guild members publicly destroyed an entire batch of unsatisfactory beer outside the town hall. The guild resolved to create something entirely new and in 1839 commissioned a purpose-built brewery and hired Josef Groll, a Bavarian brewer, to lead the project.
On 5 October 1842, Groll brewed the first batch of what would become Pilsner Urquell using the local Bohemian technique of bottom fermentation (lagering), soft Pilsen water, Bohemian Saaz hops, and Moravian barley malt. The result was a golden, clear, refreshing lager of a type that had never been produced before — European beer had always been dark and often cloudy. The timing was fortuitous: the mass production of clear glass was just beginning, and drinkers could see for the first time exactly what was in their glass. The golden clarity of the new beer was as much of its appeal as its taste.
The style spread rapidly across Europe and eventually the world. ‘Pilsner’ became the generic name for the style, and today approximately two-thirds of all beer produced globally is classified as a Pilsner or Lager in the tradition of what Josef Groll brewed in Pilsen in 1842. The Pilsner Urquell Brewery tour tells this story in full, including the brewery’s turbulent history through two world wars and four decades of Communist-era state ownership.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Pilsen worth visiting?
Yes — Pilsen is one of the most rewarding day trips from Prague and one of the most genuinely satisfying cities in the Czech Republic for independent travellers. The Pilsner Urquell Brewery tour is outstanding, the Historic Underground is one of the most interesting guided tours in Bohemia, Republic Square is architecturally impressive, and the city has a relaxed, authentic atmosphere that is refreshing after the tourist intensity of Prague. For beer enthusiasts, it is essential. For general travellers, it is a very good day trip with more depth than most alternatives.
How do I get from Prague to Pilsen?
The easiest route is by train from Praha Hlavni Nadrazi (Prague Main Railway Station). Direct trains run approximately once per hour and take 1 hour 20 to 1 hour 40 minutes. Tickets cost approximately 150 to 250 CZK (£5 to £9) and can be purchased at the station or online at cd.cz. Driving takes approximately 1 hour 15 minutes via the D5 motorway.
What is Pilsen famous for?
Pilsen is famous primarily for being the birthplace of Pilsner lager — the style of beer that now accounts for approximately two-thirds of all beer produced worldwide. The Pilsner Urquell Brewery, founded in 1842, is the original source of the style and the city’s most visited attraction. Pilsen is also known for its large Republic Square, the tallest church tower in the Czech Republic (St Bartholomew’s Cathedral), one of the most extensive medieval underground networks in Bohemia, and as the only major Czech city liberated by American rather than Soviet forces in 1945.
Is Pilsen the same as Plzen?
Yes — Pilsen and Plzen refer to the same city. Plzen is the Czech spelling; Pilsen is the German and historically used English spelling. Both are in common use in English-language travel writing. The city’s beer tradition (Pilsner lager) takes its name from the German/English spelling, which is why beer drinkers worldwide recognise ‘Pilsen’ more readily than ‘Plzen.’
Final Thoughts
Pilsen rewards the visitors who make the effort to look beyond Prague. The Pilsner Urquell Brewery tour is not simply a tourist attraction — it is a genuine account of one of the most consequential single moments in European food and drink history, experienced in the building where it happened, concluding with a glass of beer that cannot be found anywhere else in the world. The Historic Underground adds archaeological depth. Republic Square provides architectural grandeur. And the city’s relaxed, un-touristy character makes it a pleasure to simply walk around without feeling as though you are competing for pavement space.
For UK travellers with a Prague itinerary, Pilsen is the day trip that most beer-appreciating, history-interested visitors wish they had allocated more time to. Budget a full day, book the brewery tour and underground in advance, and arrive hungry.

